The Magic of Milos

If you’re planning a trip to the Cycladic islands of Greece, you can’t miss Milos.

Until recently, Milos wasn’t considered “mainstream”. I’d still argue that it’s not widely known but slowly but surely, people have begun catching on. Talk of this island is now spreading like wildfire. I’m not sure where or when I heard of this magical place but it came onto my radar out of the blue and I immediately knew that it was somewhere I needed to visit. So, when my parents asked for my input on which islands we should aim to hit on our family trip to Greece…Milos was the first one to roll off my lips.

Condé Nast Traveller describes Milos as being the best for ‘a photogenic and dramatic coastline’. They’re definitely not wrong. It’s magic. And now is as good a time as ever to visit—before it becomes a tide of visitors. Unlike Santorini, Milos still feels authentically Greek (for now).

MY THOUGHTS:

Windier and more barren than I imagined it would be, it was definitely different than what I expected but Milos still tops my list as one of my favorite places I’ve ever been. Lucking out with an incredible family-owned Airbnb, we were greeted by a local family-daughter duo that gave us the low down on all the best things to see, do, and experience during our stay.

The island is still very undeveloped in some places, with crappy roads and the best spots on the island are still mellow enough to not feel sceney. We visited during the peak of the year and still felt like parts of the island were discoverable.

We spent our days on the ATV, exploring different beaches across the island, cooking up lunch back home before watching the sunset somewhere beautiful and heading to dinner. I went totally make-up free and au natural while on Milos, lathering in sunscreen and letting my hair soak up the sea salt. It was a dream and exactly the kind of laid back place you want to go to kick back and relax.

I’m going to list below all of the places we went to, from tavernas and villages to the beaches we fell in love with and continue to dream of.

BEACHES:

There are over 70 or so beaches on Milos. Yeah, crazy. Many of them are off the beaten path (some are only reachable by boat) and each one is so different from the next—it’s undoubtably the most varied collection of beaches I’ve ever experienced from one destination. We visited all of the must-sees and even spent some time wandering down roads to find lesser known sandy spots, which is one of the beautiful things still possible on this island. Beach junkies commence!

Paliochori Beach

On the south coast of the island, Paliochori is probably the most organized beach on the island—known for its bubbling springs, colorful rocks and casual tavernas. The sand is coаrsе and the water iswarm. The rocks just bеhind the beaсh аrе alsо a vivid red, duе tо their vοlcaniс origin. If you want the full volсanic еxperiencе, you can tаste the vоlcaniс fοod cooked in the sand.

Firopatmos Beach

Classic fishermen houses are the picturesque backdrop of Firopotamos beach. The water here is perfectly clear and turquoise. Try and get there in the morning so that you can grab a bean bag lounger on the beach—this was the best part! Whatever you do, make sure you check out the beautiful church and archway above the beach.

Firiplaka Beach

I was in awe of Firiplaka. After so much researching, I thought I knew exactly what it would be like but wow. It’s so strikingly beautiful. That idyllic sandy beach we all think about when we think of Greece, the hillside that leads down to the water is a mix of yellow, red, and sand—a photo-worthy contrast to the bright turquoise water. Unlike many photos on the internet show, there weren’t any sun loungers or umbrellas around so you’ll need to bring your own umbrella and sun hats if you want any shade.

Tsigrado Beach

On the way out (or in) from Firiplaka you’ll find Tsigrado, only accessible by two ladders. Make sure that you’re prepared for the descent with the right shoes and not too many things to carry. When it gets busy it becomes a one up, one down situation and it’s steep (definitely not for everyone) but it’s a gorgeous place to spend the afternoon!

Provatas Beach

I was very pleasantly surprised by this beach. Sandy with shallow emerald waters and lots of beds to pick from, it was the calmest spot we visited. It’s a really beautiful, chilled out spot to spend the day reading, swimming, and relaxing. There’s also a little taverna, Tarantella, just across the street in case you start craving greek salad.

Sarakiniko Beach

The iconic Mars-like beach that Milos has become known for and swooned over. While this isn’t a beach that you would want to spend the entire day at it (it’s not very comfortable), it’s one of the coolest places I’ve ever been to in the world and absolutely worth seeing. We spent about three hours here, exploring, taking photos, and jumping into the water. Pro tip: go early in the morning! The rock gets HOT and it gets more and more crowded throughout the day.

EAT + DRINK:

• Medusa is a must for seafood lovers, something which I am not. Even still, it is probably the most well known restaurant on the island and it’s right on the water in the tiny little fishing cove of Mandrakia!
• Jordan’s Meating Place a go-to in Pollonia.
• Archontoula was a traditional spot that we stumbled on after watching the sunset in Plaka. Honestly, it was the first place to have an open table for five so we snagged it and it turned out to be one of our most memorable dinners. The cream chicken is out. of. this. world. We ate here twice!
• Oh Hamas! is quite the institution on Milos. Get there early for lunch or dinner. The family-run restaurant is always heaving and full of character and charm. But it’s definitely worth a visit and is at the top of a lot of people’s Milos recommendations.

SUNSET VIEWS:

Sunset on Milos is basically a holy hour so make sure you work your evening around getting to a good spot for a drink as the sun goes down. They are quite honestly some of the most beautiful golden hours I’ve ever laid my eyes on. I thought I was going to be a bit late to the party with Milos but I realized that there’s still such a magical vibe, my timing was just right.

Pollonia

Aside from Adamas, Pollonia felt like the most “built up” settlement on the island while still quiet and cute. It’s a family-friendly fishing village on the northeastern tip of the island with loads of tavernas along the waterfront. It’s a nice spot to grab a drink and watch the sun go down.

Klima

Klima is an old fishing town that’s still in operation. One of the island’s most picturesque villages, the fishing houses are carved into the rock with colorful “boat garage” doors. Pro-tip: there are a couple of really romantic Airbnb’s available for rent here. The road here is long and winding, with enough room for about 1.25 cars. So, if you’re planning to get there for sunset (which I would definitely recommend), plan ahead. There were quite few tricky traffic jams and it requires a lot of navigating!

Plaka

Plaka, the capital of Milos, is a charming and well-preserved village sprawled on the highest hill of the island. Decorated with typical Cycladic architecture of white washed houses with blue doors, it’s a beautiful place to get lost. I wouldn’t want to stay here but it’s definitely a beautiful place to get lost and enjoy a golden hour or two.

Venetian Castle

Built in the 13th century, the Venetian Castle is located on the highest peak on the island. It offers some of the very best views in Milos so I would definitely come here for sunset (or sunrise). Just be sure to start the journey early if you want a good spot, it’s all uphill and it takes awhile to reach the top. But it’s worth it.

PLACES TO STAY:

Millis House

This is the Airbnb property that we rented and have nothing but good things to say about…Maria and her dad, Panos, run the property and were the sweetest hosts, ever! There to greet us, to hug us goodbye, and even to drop off homemade traditional treats every day of our stay. The house was cleaned daily and always stocked with coffee, water, wine and snacks. It was just so beautiful and calming. Only few minutes from the port and the best of the island’s beaches, it was honestly ideal! There’s a second house on the property so if you’re traveling with a large group this would be PERFECT.

Salt

We had limited choices for places to stay since we traveled during the high season and booked our accommodations only a couple of months in advance. So, Salt was completely booked but I’ve heard amazing things about this property! Located near Pollonia and super close to Papafragas Beach, the white-washed rooms are in a prime location. I’d love to stay here next time!

Skinopi Lodge

I’ve heard really wonderful things about Skinopi. Set on nine acres of sea-facing private land and designed to reflect Cycladic culture—the property blends into the landscape (something I really appreciate). This is the place to be if you want a secluded, off-the-grid kind of getaway.

FOR NEXT TIME:

In every piece that I’ve ever read about Milos, the writer talks about the impact of seeing the island from the sea. With only so much time and a lot of ground to cover, we chose to explore on land but I would’ve really loved to journey around the coast on a boat trip to Kimolos or the Klemtiko caves. It looks stunning and the water is apparently even bluer and clearer out there than on the island’s beaches. Hard to believe. I always say that I like to leave a place with things worth doing left behind so that there’s a good reason for a next time. So, until then…